How to Read Vintage Crochet Patterns (Without the Stress)

Have you seen a beautiful vintage crochet border, cloth or garment that you simply have to make, but have been intimidated by the vintage pattern? It may even look to the uninitiated that you really do have a book written in code in front of you.

What Makes Vintage Crochet Patterns Different

Older patterns often assume you already know the basics and local terms. Abbreviations can vary, hook sizes were labeled differently, and yarns may be discontinued. Don’t worry—once you align terms, hooks, and yarn, the rest reads clearly. 

Step 1: Identify US vs UK Terms

Many vintage leaflets use UK terms. That means a UK “treble (tr)” = US “double crochet (dc)”, and UK “double crochet (dc)” = US “single crochet (sc)”. Check the pattern’s notes for the language; if it’s not stated, scan the stitches used and compare with a conversion chart.

Quick cue: If the pattern uses “dc” for a very short stitch, it’s probably UK. Check out our guide to US and UK Stitch Conversions for more information.

Step 2: Translate Hook Sizes

Vintage hooks may be listed in steel numbers or UK letters. Map the given size to modern mm to match gauge. If the pattern calls for “No. 7 steel hook,” look up the modern millimeter equivalent, then swatch.

KnitPal: US & UK Crochet Hook Conversion Chart

Tip: Always trust gauge over the printed hook size. The right hook is the one that hits gauge for your yarn and tension.

Step 3: Read Abbreviations Like a Local

Vintage patterns often pack instructions into tight shorthand: brackets [ ], parentheses ( ), and asterisks … indicate repeats and groups. Read a full row before you begin. If a row looks complex, pencil-mark each repeat so you don’t lose your place.

Tip! 

All vintage crochet patterns are written in UK terms or the vintage terms above even if they were printed or published in the US. Always make sure that you know which of these stitch names are used in the design by keeping this table handy.

Other vintage crochet terms used in patterns, by Roving Crafters

• ac = across
• beg = beginning, also bgr = beginning of round
• bl = back loop (but sometimes in older patterns in can also mean “bobble” – what we often call a “popcorn stitch”)
• cl = cluster/popcorn stitch
• cm – closed mesh, seen in some vintage patterns as a way to describe the closed stitches in fillet crochet. This is usually a group of four double crochet/treble stitches. The outer two stitches form the “frame” of the filet crochet block, while the center two stitches “fills it in”. Also see “om/open mesh” below.
• fl = front loop, that is to say, work only through the front loop of the required stitch and not through both loops.
• foll/folls = following/follows
• incl = including
• m. = open mesh, seen in some vintage patterns as a way to describe the open stitches in fillet crochet. In this case, it is a group of two double crochet/treble stitches with two chain stitches between them. The chain stitches are what makes the mesh block formed by the stitches “open”. Also see “cm/closed mesh” above.
• p/pc = picot, which is still made in the same way as the modern day picot; consisting of three chain stitches that are formed into a small loop by making a slip stitch into the stitch before the first stitch of the picot.
• prr = previous round
• raised stitch = a “raised stitch” refers to the front post double crochet/front post treble stitch, in which the stitch is worked around a previous double crochet/treble’s “post” instead of through the two loops that form the top of the double crochet/treble.
• rf = repeat from; what would in modern patterns be shown as “repeat from *”. An asterisk would show where the repeat of the pattern or row would begin. If the piece of the pattern needs to be repeated more than once, this will also be shown in modern patterns. In many vintage patterns it is inferred that the crocheter knows how many times the pattern should be repeated for any one round.
• x/x st = a treble crochet (UK) cross stitch. This should not be confused with the “x” that is used to show a single crochet/double crochet stitch on crochet charts. See the Encyclopedia of Needlework, Chapter 9 for more information. 

Step 4: Focus on Gauge, Not Label Size

Size standards have changed. Use the finished measurements in the pattern and swatch to match stitches per inch. Adjust hook size up or down until your swatch matches the listed gauge.

 How to substitute yarn for vintage patterns

Step 5: Smart Yarn Substitution

Many vintage yarns don’t exist now. Choose a modern yarn with similar fiber, weight, and yardage for the pattern’s gauge and drape.

• Want soft, washable comfort for heirloom gifts? Try Cotton Bliss (breathable, great stitch definition).

• Love plush borders and throws? Chenillique gives a cozy, velvety texture.

• Prefer classic wooly warmth and bounce? Woolen Delights or Merino Moments keep structure and memory.

• For luxe shine and crisp stitches on lace edgings, Off-the-Yak delivers polished definition.

Step 6: Charts in Vintage Patterns

If your leaflet includes a symbol chart, use it! Charts can be faster than text once you know the symbols. Start at Row 1, follow arrows or round indicators, and work row by row (or in the round) as shown. Mark your place with a washi tape tab or highlighter after each row to avoid repeats confusion.

Step 7: Work Methodically (and Kindly)

• Read the special stitches section first.

• Highlight repeats; tally rows with a stitch marker or mobile notes app.

• If something looks off, count stitches at the end of each row before moving on.

Short, calm sessions beat late-night frogging.

 FAQs

How do I know if a vintage pattern is written in UK or US terms?
Look for a note near the materials list. If it isn’t there, compare stitch names: if “dc” acts like a very short stitch, it’s likely UK (US sc).

What hook should I use if the pattern says “No. 7” or a letter?
Convert the size to mm using a hook chart, then swatch. Choose the hook that gives the listed gauge, not just the converted size.

Can I swap the original yarn?
Yes—match gauge, fiber, and drape. Start with the pattern’s gauge; then pick a modern yarn that hits it after swatching (e.g., Chenillique for plush feel, Cotton Bliss for breathable comfort, Woolen Delights/Merino Moments for springy structure).

Why doesn’t my size match the photo?
Size conventions changed. Go by finished measurements and gauge. Adjust hook size or yarn weight if needed.

How do I follow repeats and brackets?
Brackets [ ] and parentheses ( ) group stitches; asterisks mark repeats. Read the entire row once, then repeat between … as instructed.

For more vintage patterns and help with reading vintage crochet patterns, visit:

Encyclopedia of Needlework, Chapter 9

Piecework Magazine

The Internet Archive

You can also watch this very informative video by Long Thread Media and Karen Brock: